Sunset Celebration at Mallory Square, Key West, Florida
Every afternoon, as if pulled by some invisible magnet, residents and visitors are drawn to Mallory Square at the northern terminus of Key West’s famous Duval Street to pay homage to the setting sun. It has been so for decades; Tennessee Williams is said to have been the first to toast the sunset at Mallory Square, with gin and tonic firmly in hand. Ernest Hemingway and John Audubon both expounded upon the island’s spectacular sunsets.
Unicyclist ends his act by juggling flaming torches
Today the sunsets are just as gorgeous as ever but the celebration is no longer the soul-soothing, spiritual event it once was. In the late 1960’s, hippies in search of paradise descended upon Key West. They too flocked to Mallory Square to witness the sunset, usually high on LSD or some other mind altering drug.
Multi-talented musician
Soon, vendors were setting up along the wide promenade that borders the Gulf of Mexico, despite signs that declared peddling to be illegal. Performing artists also recognized an opportunity; jugglers, animal acts, high-wire artists, acrobats, and fire-eaters all began appearing nightly, working for tips. By the time the City of Key West addressed the problem, the tradition had become so entrenched that it was impossible to stop.
Over the past few years, sunset celebration has become noticeably more commercial. Temporary kiosks sprout side-by-side for a few hours each evening, hawking everything from hand-made crafts to popcorn. The artists have developed a loose confederation that dictates what spot each artist occupies along the waterfront and when each one performs. They manage to time things so that each performance begins just as the neighboring act is finishing up, inexorably drawing the audience from one spot to the next. It’s all in good fun, and mostly entertaining, but the pressure to donate is relentless. In past years the performers “suggested” a dollar or two, or at most a fiver; these days they are strongly “suggesting” that their performance is worth a $20 tip.
Escape artist works his magic
If you can resist the pressure without feeling guilty, a visit to Key West’s sunset celebration is certainly not to be missed. If not, just retire one of the rooftop restaurants or bars in Key West, order up a gin and tonic, toast Tennessee Williams, and enjoy the sunset in peace.
Photo credit: Barbara Weibel
Article by Barbara Weibel at Hole In The Donut Travels
